Crossing Sheik Hussein

Shalom Aleichem!!

Arrival in Amman was the first time that I had to buy a visa on my whole trip. It only cost 20 Jordanian Dinars but just like everything in Jordan - it took time! Finally I got through immigration and jumped on a bus to downtown Amman where I checked into a 3 star hotel.

Jordan is an interesting country as it has an ancient history (the Greeks and Romans were here) however most of their cities are very new and industrial. Things are expensive too as the exchange rates are terrible with 1 euro buying 0.9 Jordanian Dinars. The money system here is confusing with three levels of currency. 1000 Fils = 1 Jordanian Dinar (usually referred to as a "JayDee") and 100 Fils = 1 Piastre. Prices can be advertised in any 1 of the 3 types! Some things are cheap like a Falafel sandwich will set you back 800 Fils max but a 3 star hotel will cost you 20 JD a night!

Amman is a pretty boring city to be honest and the downtown is not so exciting with mostly travel agencies and corporate offices. It feels like any other big city and is a little dirty. However if you take the time to explore you will find some hidden gems. On the first day I set out to see the ancient Citadel, propped up on one of the hills of the city. This site has been settled by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and in later times Muslims. There are some well preserved remains, although small, throughout the site including the temple of Hercules, a Byzantine church and a Muslim royal palace. Also on the site is Jordan's first archeological museum, a cute little collection of artifacts found around the Citadel site. I spent a good hour walking around the site and admiring the impressive view of Amman city. Down the west side you can see the ancient Roman Amphitheater (which I visited later) and in the distance a great flagpole (flag-less at that time because the King was not in the country) that used to be the tallest in the world.

On leaving the site I met a tour guide who tried to sell me a trip and tour of other nearby sites. After bargaining hard I managed to crack a good deal and so off we went! The first stop on the tour was a small village called Madaba (about 45 minutes outside Amman) which is known as the city of Mosaics, so-called because of the many ancient mosaics found in the city and the numerous mosaic factories working today. On the drive down the guide explained the history of the area including the biblical story of the many nations that resided in the area such as the Moabites.

We arrived in Madaba and went straight to the St George's Church which houses the most famous Mosaic. The Mosaic is an ancient map of the area showing Israel, Syria, Egypt and Jordan. Although it is 1500 years old it is surprisingly accurate and is the oldest surviving map of its kind. In 1967, excavations in the Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem revealed the Nea Church and the Cardo Maximus in the very locations suggested by the Madaba Map - amazing!

Next stop was Har Nevo (Mount Nebo), the biblical location where Moses looked into Israel and passed away. At the top of the hill is a church dedicated to Moses where monks live and many pilgrims visit from all around the world. The view is quite amazing, the opposite to what I am used to! Looking into Israel you can see the dead sea as well as Jerusalem (the other side of the mount of olives. It was amazing how close I was to the holy land.... but I would have to wait a few more days before entering.....

That evening I went searching for a place to eat in downtown Amman.... surprisingly hard! I found a place down a little side street which only makes Felafel. It was a tiny little establishment with an Arab dude with a funky mustache making and cooking felafel balls at the speed of light! I dubbed him "The Felafel man" and attempted to order my sandwich (he didn't speak much English but at least he gives you free fresh felafels to try while you wait!) .

The next day I walked up King Hussein street to the King Abdullah bin al-Hussein mosque. This mosque is not some ancient wonder like you would find in Istanbul, however it is impressive with its stunning blue dome and fresh white minarets.

Next I was off to the Roman Amphitheater (the one which I could see from the Citadel). This theater is in very good nick and is still used today. It sits in the middle of downtown juxtaposed to an array of crappy, half complete apartment blocks. I sat at the top and watched the myriads of tourists from all over the world wandering through. Next to the theater is a museum called the "Museum of Popular traditions" and contains a small collection of traditional clothing and jewelery worn by different tribes from around the area. I found it disturbing to see signs of tribes from BeerSheva described as Palestine. (Later, I found it even more disturbing that there is a TV channel called Al-Quds dedicated to Israel bashing - although this may not be Jordanian in origin).

The only other thing to see in Amman is the vegetable souks (markets) behind the King Hussein Mosque in the heart of downtown. Unlike Israel or Egypt there are no great traditional Bazaars or Souks to explore. The vege market is the closest thing you will find - it is still fun to wander through and hear all the sellers shouting their latest deal to the crowd.

That evening I visited the Hashem restaurant (as recommended in Lonely Planet). This restaurant is a vegetarian (slash kosher) dream! There are no menus but I just asked for something of everything ... and was brought a selection of salads, pita, hummus, and tea. Yum!

The next day I left Amman and headed north. I managed to strike a deal with the tour guide from before to take me to Jaresh and Irbid (including a tour along the way). Jerash is probably one of the most impressive Roman ruins in the world. It was destroyed in the middle east earthquake of 749 CE but after extensive excavations has been revealed as remarkably well preserved. The most impressive stretch is the Cardo Maximus and the Oval forum at the south end. There are also two large temples (dedicated to Zeus and Artemis), a long hippodrome, two amphitheaters, a couple of Byzantine churches and much much more!!! The site is huge and with its many pillars an arches is truly an awesome site. The town used to be called Gerasa and was a major trade connection point between Jerusalem, Damascus, Baghdad and Philadelphia (the old name for Amman). I was guided around the main sections and was also allowed to explore on my own for 30 minutes before we had to head off. The site was packed with Jordanian school kids singing and drumming. I was approached by some 15 year old gilrs (with Hijab and all) and was asked if I had a girlfriend - when I answered no, they quickly retorted - "well why not - you are very good looking!" - what a crack up!!!

That afternoon we arrived at Irbid. There is nothing to see in this city, so I was only stopping here because it was close to the border with Israel. As there is no too much tourism here, I found it very hard finding a hotel (let alone of cheap one) and had to settle for a slightly more expensive, but luxurious, hotel. Oh well - 1 night in luxury is all good!

Irbid is a university town and is sprawling with young hip Jordanians students. The main drag of the downtown (called university street - funny that) is packed full of American fast food restaurants, Nargileh bars (known locally as Arguileh) and internet cafes (in fact Irbid has the Guinness world record for the most internet cafes!). I really preferred Irbid over Amman - it had more of a young vibe and great nightlife. The city is relatively clean and modern and the residents seem to be more western and connected to the world.

In the evening I popped into a local Arguileh bar (well technically not a bar, because no alcholol is served) and ordered an Arguileh to smoke and some mint tea to drink. That night was a big night as Real Madrid were playing Tottenham Hotspurs - so the place packed out pretty quick. The locals at the bar were very friendly and were interested to know about me and my travels. They were also kind and made sure I was comfortable the whole night and even recommended to me a new type of tea to try - tea with sage... yummmmm!

The next day I took a taxi down to the Sheik Hussein border crossing. I thought it would be a quick crossing but boy was I wrong!!! Firstly there are no signs in English or information people to assist you. I just attempted to follow the crowd (which was large and consisted mostly of arabs and a couple of israelis). I figured out that I needed to get a exit stamp - which I had to queue 45 minutes for! Next I had to pay tax (well I assumed we had to pay as everyone else was doing it) and I walked outside to attempt to cross. Carrying my heavy backpack in the hot sun I walked to the crossing only to be told that you cannot cross by walking - only by bus! So back I went to wait for the bus! The bus came, and on trying to get on was informed that I had to buy a ticket..... Finally I was on the bus. However the bus took almost 1 hour to drive about 50 meters!!!!! By this point I was quite pissed off, hungry (I had not eaten and it was like 3pm) and thirsty!!!

Finally crossed to Israel!!!! No buses - but luckily managed to hitch a ride with some kind Israelis to Beit Shean where I headed straight to the Kosher McDonalds!!! After I had re-energised I hitched a ride to the Kibbutz (Sde Eliyahu) where I will be staying for the next few days. My mother's cousin Arieh (originally from Wellington) lives on the Kibbutz with his family (4 out of 6 kids are currently on the Kibbutz) and mother. It was great to see them again after about 1.5 years. I spent a lovely Shabbos with them enjoying the last of the Chametz that the Kibbutz has to offer!

Pesach is soooo close! I am quite excited - I love Seder but am sad that I will not be spending it with my Family. I am also not looking forward to trying to find kosher l'Pesach food in Jerusalem that is not Kitniot - I remember it being quite difficult!!!

Anyways... my next update will be from Jerusalem. I wish everyone a Chag Pesach Sameach V'Kasher!!!!!